I must make a terrible confession. I have kept a truth about me from you for thirty-five issues and thirty-three thousand words. I cannot conceal it any longer, I am a… I am a…
I am a cathedrophile!
I love England’s cathedrals. One book I’ve bought calls them “the most spectacular and lasting accomplishment of the English people”, and I agree. I could not have set my first novel anywhere but the loving gaze of beautiful Durham Cathedral, where I passed my happy undergraduate years. Inscribed on a bridge (with a view of the cathedral) that I crossed every day were five lines from Walter Scott’s 1817 poem Harold The Dauntless. The lines below are my own selection:
Gray towers of Durham! there was once a time
I view’d your battlements with such vague hope,
As brightens life in its first dawning prime;
Not that e’en then came within fancy’s scope…
Well yet I love thy mix’d and massive piles,
Half church of God, half castle ’gainst the Scot,
And long to roam these venerable aisles,
With records stored of deeds long since forgot,…
Vain is the wish—since other cares demand
Each vacant hour, and in another clime;
But still that northern harp invites my hand,
Which tells the wonder of thine earlier time;
And fain its numbers would I now command
To paint the beauties of that dawning fair.
That northern harp invited my hand too. Hopefully to another “spectacular and lasting accomplishment”. But, though nearing, publication is still some way off. In the meantime I thought I’d endeavour to visit and rank every cathedral in England. My research stacks seem to agree on a canon of forty-two constructions. I doubt any will surpass Durham – per cathedral encyclopedia Simon Jenkins the “most superbly sited” of all cathedrals in the world – or disappoint disgraceful St Paul’s, but those might happen, and in any case the project will be a great and rewarding adventure. I have made a graphic that I hope will attract viral fame. Please share, please supply feedback:
We will fill it in as we go. I placed Sheffield already. The trip there is one of my favourite issues, but I saw the cathedral while there and it was not that good. It stands beside to the founding spot of the first ever professional football club but is not remarkable otherwise. Batsford and Fry’s authoritative The Cathedrals of England groups it not in the twenty-six ‘major cathedrals’, or the hat-trick of ‘modern cathedrals’, but one of the ominously thirteen ominously uncharismatic ‘parish-church cathedrals’. I did have fun there, though, so I didn’t put it all the way down.
Here are the rest to be placed – weigh in and start defaming rivals to champion your fav:
Birmingham, Blackburn, Bradford, Bristol, Canterbury, Carlisle, Chelmsford, Chester, Chichester, Coventry, Derby, Ely, Exeter, Gloucester, Guildford, Hereford, Leicester, Lichfield, Lincoln, Liverpool, Manchester, Newcastle, Norwich, Oxford, Peterborough, Portsmouth, Ripon, Rochester, St. Albans, St. Edmundsbury, Salisbury, Southwark, Southwell, Truro, Wakefield, Wells, Winchester, Worcester, York.
All very fun so thanks folks, have a great weekend, excitably yours,
GM
Afterbirth
The ‘oui à tout’ mantra delivered a busy Thursday night. Two free tickets popped up; I surged first to a splendidly opulent fundraiser in Fitzrovia, crammed six or seven glasses of champagne and six or seven hundred canapes into my brief spell there, then flew off to the O2 for the concert of a singer called Gracie Abrams. The fundraiser was mentioned in this weekend’s Saturday Read:
And the concert review can be found through this link through this link. I asked one fan to describe Abrams’ sonic quality. She replied “Not that good. But sometimes teen girlies just need someone to scream and cry with.”
Lastly, if of interest, this week was one of the starriest Best of the Rests I’ve yet compiled. If you fancy more reading you might like any of the below. Sally Rooney on Ronnie O’Sullivan?! Sally Rooney?! Ronnie O’Sullivan?!
I must confess that I misread the headline as CATHETERPHILIA and into my head popped an old London Transport slogan: ''It's Quicker By Tube''
On the subject of cathedrals,however, I would not call myself a Cathedrophiliac but when the occasion has arisen I have visited some of these cathedrals and been suitably impressed. Being a Londoner I have been often to St Paul's and Westminster Abbey and Southwark which was close to the company I worked for. I have also been into that curious Victorian pile that is the RC Westminster cathedral. I have also visited St Albans and Salisbury with its magnificent spire.
My most memorable visit to a cathedral was to the newly rebuilt Coventry cathedral. It happened that the company I worked for in London had a branch in Coventry and one of my colleagues had the bright idea that we would benefit from a visit to our sister company. A ruse of course, a cover for a visit to the cathedral. The company fell for it and laid on a coach and off we went to spend the morning on a quick tour and then a midday meal in the works canteen.
Off then to spend the afternoon at the new cathedral which is an impressive building, well worth a visit. For most of us though the main point was the emotional pull of the phoenix that had arisen from the ashes of WW2. It is difficult to understand the feelings of that time,a mere 15 years after the end of that war with every city in the land still pockmarked with bomb sites. Every one of us on that trip,indeed probably just about everybody in the country, would have known somebody who had suffered in that war. For most of us I think on that trip the most moving moment was the preserved part of the bombed out old cathedral with the remains of the burnt cross as its centerpiece.
The mention of Fitzrovia brought back happy memories of a gloriously well spent youth and early adulthood there and in Soho. It is many decades since I have been in the area but I remember my first visit to the Fitzroy Tavern. Seeing the many pictures on the walls by artists of the day and the one that sticks in my mind the mural of the tube train carriage complete with passengers.
Happy days.
If York isn't top few we will need a recount